Thursday, 27 September 2012

Incey Wincey Spyder...


I haven't posted in a week so I thought I would just update everyone on what's been going on. I have had very little time to paint this week, my focus has been needed on other things, but I have had a moment here or there to start on a unit I can't wait to field... my Canoptek Spyder. I actually have 2 of these, one of them needs assembly but I was far too impatient to assembly line paint this one!

I also had another game with my Necrons on monday - 1,250 points against another Tyranid army (typical, you don't fight Tyranids for 16 years and suddenly a whole bunch turn up). I lost 7 - 0 VPs, I got massacred. I have learnt, however, that Tyranids are an incredibly versatile army that everyone plays differently. It's good to know!

Friday, 21 September 2012

We Are Immortal!

Such a beautiful sight.
I've been toiling hard to get my first 10 man unit of Immortals done and dusted. All I need to do is spray varnish them and they are done and I don't need to worry about them any more! After testing out the rules for both the Gauss Blasters and Tesla Carbines, I think I'm definitely going to do my next Immortal squad with Tesla Carbines - Gauss Blasters lose their advantage over them if you fight an army lacking vehicles unfortunately. I think I'd prefer to let the Warriors strip tanks too, given the whole "6 automatically glances" spiel.

I have a game against yet another friend who collects Tyranids on monday, so I wanted to get these bad boys ready in time (why does everyone collect Tyranids when I start my Necrons - surely not a coincidence!)

So where do I go from here? Well I still need to paint up about 14 Necron Warrior arms since I haven't been bothered to do most of them yet (I hate painting guns). I also have some Canoptek stuff to put together and paint which will be most excellent in my games, particularly the Spyders, but I will be planning a sub-secret project I've been planning that I'm calling the "4 Horsemen Project". I don't know when I'll get around to that though...

Wednesday, 19 September 2012

Review: KR Multicase System (Double Size Case)

That's right, I went all extravagant and went right ahead and purchased myself a KR Multicase for my Necrons, and a double sized case at that.

The primary reason I bought myself one of these is purely because my Monolith doesn't fit in a standard GW case and they stopped doing the monster cases a while back. I had heard a lot of good things about the product so I decided to get one of their bigger cases and test it out.

The great thing about the KR Multicases is that you can order custom cut trays for various army (I'm pretty sure they cater for all Games Workshop armies as well), but if that seems a little too extravagant, they also supply a guide to what miniatures fit which core trays. Very useful. So without further ado, let's run through what you get for your buck.

Ordering your case

KR supply a variety of sizes for their cases, from standard size (same size as a Games Workshop case and also comes in a reinforced cardboard format) to six times storage. They also have a skirmish variant (half the size of a standard case) and the gigantic prestige case (big enough to hold a Titan!). As well as all this, they supply backpacks and bags that can hold several cases for your convenience. Very nice.

When you order your case, you are presented with a choice. You can get the case empty or fill it up with set core trays, of which there is plenty of variety. If you go to your own army's page, you can also choose a "Bespoke Case" which can also be filled with custom fit trays (all or nothing) or, again, core trays, but doing so this way will tell you what each selection will hold from your army. Very useful.

It is worth pointing out that KR trays typically come in 5 depth sizes, in half and full tray sizes: 1/4th, 1/3rd, 1 half, 2/3rds and full depth. These are all compared to a standard size case, so keep in mind how much of your case each tray takes up. Of course if you order core tray sets, you can ignore this problem.

I will also advise to shop around for the best deal. Sometimes core trays are cheaper in sets, or you will want to order custom trays on top, which sometimes gives you more trays for less, so check before you buy. Also, if you go for the Fed Ex courier option, unless you really need it in a hurry, don't both with the 24 hour option. I chose the 48 hour option, £5 cheaper and still got it next day.

The case itself

This is what you get in the case

Inside your case you will find any foam you ordered that fits in the case (even if it wasn't ordered as part of a pre-filled case), an empty label holder, a shoulder strap and instructions on how to lock your case (more on that in a moment). I've seen many videos where people got a packet of silica gel, but I personally didn't so I can't comment.

The foam that KR supply is very soft, much softer than the foam Games Workshop supply in their cases, and very tough. I've done some testing on a spare tray, tearing and pulling at it and it's still good as new. The inside of the case, unlike the Games Workshop case is lined with a smooth, soft material that adds some extra protection to your precious miniatures.

A combination lock comes with the double and larger cases
If you order a double sized case or larger, your case will also come with a couple of combination locks which do work nicely. This picture was taken before I set my combination (because I don't want people knowing it) but it's incredibly simple to set up. There are instructions inside the case on how to do it, and the lock keeps your case nice and secure.

An example of some Necron custom trays
One of my favourite things, however, about the KR system is the custom trays you can order. These are a bit more expensive than the core trays but they are amazing. In the above example I show a Necron Monolith custom tray (which comes with an opposing "lid" style tray not shown), which is a full tray and another 3rd in depth. I also show the Command Barge and Triarch Stalker custom tray.

As you can see, the models fit snugly in their trays and are a good fit. in the left tray, you'll see some precut foam which is removable. I have only taken the segment out for my Annihilation Barge as I have nothing to fill the other two segments as of yet.

Finally I want to talk about the outer case itself. It's about as tough as a general Games Workshop case but surprisingly light as well. I misjudged it's weight first time and almost threw the thing over my shoulder.

Overall

I highly recommend these cases. They are more expensive than the Games Workshop cases (unless you go for the standard cardboard set up) but the quality of the cases and foam are far superior. If that's not reason enough, the fact KR do bigger cases means you can easily transport your larger miniatures without trying to construct your own carry system to go with your existing case. Well worth looking into at the very least.

You can find their site by clicking here.

Monday, 17 September 2012

Kabuki Models

Hi all. This isn't a "proper update" per se, but I thought it was a good enough reason to post. Someone in a hobby group I'm part of showed me a great site that does fantastic stand alone miniatures and conversion parts. I would definitely check it out, their Knights of Legends section has some amazing miniatures that would work incredibly well as Primarch models. Here's the link (I've also added this to the conversion bits list to the right):

http://www.kabukimodels.com/index.php

In other news, I am working on my Necrons still. Slowly... slowly.

Saturday, 15 September 2012

Necron Tactica: Vs Tyranids

I had my first proper game of 6th edition today against a friend's Tyranids (I had a game a few weeks back but was asked to run it as a tutorial game so I don't technically count it as a proper game). I ended up winning, but myself and my opponent forgot some of the rules along the way so we put it down to a learning experience.

At first, the Tyranids seem like a daunting army to fight against with Necrons. These fears are mostly unfounded and I was pleasantly surprised at how well these two armies matched up to each other, so I've decided to post what I've learnt. Please bear in mind these experiences are from a small game of 40k without any vehicles (800 points each side) so these experiences may not match bigger games.

  • Unless you plan to march your Immortals forward against the Tyranids (which I seriously don't advise), equip them all with Tesla Carbines. As they are 24" assault weapons, they have a serious advantage over Gauss Blasters at long range and far more potential on the number of hits you can score. As Tyranids use no vehicles what-so-ever, you'll find no tactical advantage with the Gauss Blaster other than the AP value, and you'll be wanting hits over no armour saves. Tesla Carbines also always get 3 hits for every hit on a charging unit whilst overwatching.
  • Don't underestimate the usefulness of the Phaeron upgrade for Overlords. If you take it, put them in a squad of Warriors (it's a useless upgrade for Immortals with Tesla Carbines). In a "charge or be charged" situation, it's always a good idea to pound the opponent with gauss fire then charge for +1 attack, which you can do with the Phaeron upgrade. You could risk overwatching, but I find it's less useful than an extra attack.
  • Wraiths should always be equipped with Whip Coils and thrown at the enemy for two reasons. Firstly, Tyranid players tend to underestimate them in close quarters and secondly, as Tyranids are less of a shooty army so there's less risk of them being shot down before they can shine. With invulnerable saves and rending attacks coupled with S4, W2 and A3, they are vicious, and the Whip Coils allow you to strike first against most of the combat. I was able to kill a brood of Genestealers, make a Venomthrope run away and landed the killing blow on a Hive Tyrant with mine. Which reminds me...
  • Watch out for Hive Tyrants. Seriously, there's no shame in these guys not having an invulnerable save. I lost my Overlord, 15 Warriors and 2 Wraiths against this monstrosity, whilst I only lost a single Immortal otherwise.
  • Reanimation Protocols. Very useful. Don't rely on it.
  • Warriors and Immortals are terrible in combat, but Immortals at least are less killable. Unless you're sure of a win, keep them out of combat as much as possible...
  • Overlords on the other hand are far more durable. With T5 and S5, they can give a surprising number of Tyranids a run for their money, especially if they have a Phase Shifter. They won't stand a chance against Hive Tyrants however. Nemekh the Summoner got squished without a second thought.
  • Choke points. If they exist, use them, and stand well away from them. It's all very well mowing down Tyranids as they struggle to all get through, but if they charge you, you won't be able to shoot at the waves coming through.
  • Quantity over quality is definitely key against Tyranids. If they have to split their charges, they become easier to kill.

Well that's all the nuggets of wisdom I have for you all today. I have more games planned and I will update with what I've learned. I will test some more into Mindshackle Scarabs (using the lesser known tactic known as "stop hitting yourself") and Tesseract Labrynths. My Mindshackle Scarabs didn't work this time around and Tesseract Labrynths seem the best bet to kill my nemesis: The Hive Tyrant. If anyone else has anything to add, please do not hesitate to comment!

Tuesday, 11 September 2012

Annihilation Barge: Completed and Thoughts

After 2 weeks of love and labour, my Annihilation Barge is complete! Truth be told, I started this project a little early because I know I have a game against Tyranids at some point soon and I wanted to test it's capabilities at pest control. Mwahahaha!

Now that I've completed it, I have compiled a list of things of do's and don'ts when it comes to putting the Necron Barges together (Maybe the Arks too, don't know, haven't started on my Ghost Ark yet). There are a few things I didn't know about, some awkward bits and a few things I would have done differently given the knowledge I have now. I pass on this knowledge to you, dear readers:

Do

  • Be prepared to get the geometry set out, some of the pieces will need steady hands and logistics to put together (I'm looking at you, pilot seats!).
  • Work out how you're going to fit the gun emplacement before you glue it in. If you've already added the back plates, it's a real pain to fit in.
  • Test your fittings before you super glue them in. The front bit of my barge has a minor, but annoying gap in between it and the main body. Grrrrr...
  • Make sure you have ample supplies of green and silver for your barge. I'm running so dangerously low on Snot Green I fear I may have to replace it on my next visit to GW!
Don't
  • Paint up too many bits separately. Doing so means you must use super glue, and super glue is a fickle product at the best of times. It would be better to avoid it altogether if possible with this kit since you will need to place some components very delicately.
  • Glue the keyboards in before the pilots, they're hard enough to put in without those in the way. Unless you are really good at judging the angles, don't chance it.
  • Listen to the instructions concerning not gluing in the propulsion at the back. Seriously, they are so easy to pull out if you don't glue them in.
Altogether a lovely looking model, if a pain to put together in places. I'm really happy with how mine's come out, but I'm in no rush to start another one. I really need a break from Necron vehicles for the moment.

Until next time, here are some close ups of the model.

Tesla Destructor

Pilot

Back view and trademark gold/blue symbols

Saturday, 8 September 2012

Green Teslas? Not for me!

Just thought I'd drop a quick post regarding my progress with the Annihilation Barge. It's slow going, damn my tendency to paint my vehicles in parts! This is why I hate painting vehicles.

I've been checking out some other peoples works on how they have painted their tesla weapons. I've not painted tesla weapons before this model in my army and I was trying to get ideas on how to do it. Most people paint their tesla weapons with a green theme, which is cool, the wonderful thing about this hobby is that everyone can paint their minis however they like. Having said that, Necron tesla weapons are obviously based on the technology that makes up the tesla coil, which looks like this.

See this? This is what I will do to my enemies...
There's no green here, it's pure, unrelenting electricity. Now, obviously, Necron weapons are famed for their envy coloured weaponry, but green lightning just doesn't do it for me. I wanted to get the feel of pure electricity instead. Now this was an untested method in this context, but I decided to try something similar to the effect I used on Nemekh's resurrection orb, and this is what happened.

Shocking.
It looks okay I think. Not fantastic, but okay. It was the first time I tried using one of GW's new shade colours and was surprised at how much they can darken colours. Not that I'm complaining, the first layer for the actual lightning streaks were far too bright. I'm sure with a little practice I can perfect this method.

Tuesday, 4 September 2012

Tutorial: Painting Necron Vehicles

I've been working on my Annihilation Barge for the last week now and have had a few people compliment me mightily on the glowing green shade I've done on it so far, so I thought I would give a quick (and I mean quick, it's very easy to do) tutorial to show you guys how I do it.

Credit where credit's due, this method was adapted from Ron's guide at From the Warp. You can read the original article here.

So here are the things you'll need to paint your vehicles ala my style:

Chaos Black Undercoat
Warpstone Glow (I used the original Snot Green)
Moot Green (I used the original Scorpion Green)
Biel-Tan Green Shade (I used the original Thraka Green Wash)
Waywatcher Green Glaze
Abaddon Black
Large Drybrush
LARGE Drybrush (the tank sized one)
Wash Brush

Okay, so start off, as ever, by undercoating your miniature with Chaos Black Undercoat. Then take your tank sized drybrush and your Warpstone Glow (or Snot Green, whichever takes your fancy) and drybrush it on to every corner of the model - by this I mean anything that's not a flat surface (although I tend to give a drybrush layer over the Necron runes, personal preference). After you've done this give the whole area a generous wash of Biel-Tan Green Shade to mute and blend the colours. You should get something looking like this:

Doesn't look too intense yet. We will fix that.
After the wash has dried, take out your non-tank sized large drybrush and your Moot Green paint and drybrush these on the very extreme corners (IE where two sides meet). You should notice quite a difference now.

You're almost ready for the last step, but before I go on to that something I have noticed whilst doing this is something you get little bloches of extremely light green that gathers in indents in the miniature, like in the picture below.

Unsightly!
I would personally clear these up now, it's very simple to do, don't worry. Just go over these areas with some Abaddon Black and it should fix the problem well enough. In Ross's tutorial he mentions about cleaning up the edges with some watered down black as well. I personally don't do this as I like the faint glowing affect I have already, but this is completely down to personal preference, so do what is best for you.

Now that is all done, give the whole model a heavy wash of Waywatcher Green Glaze. Wait for it to dry and viola!

Done! Just needs detailing now.
I would advise to anyone, regardless of what your painting, always do your drybrushing before anything else unless you have to do so over another layer. Drybrushing is the most unpredictable method of painting a lot of the time and it will likely get in places you don't want it unless you are extremely careful. So I highly advise you to do this step before detailing. Well, unless you're a god at painting, in which case carry on.

UPDATE:

Just to give you an idea of how the vehicle should look when it's done, I have since finished the Annihilation Barge.


Monday, 3 September 2012

Error 400: Annihilation Barge

I have learnt a valuable lesson today concerning Necron vehicles. You can never be too careful when putting them together! I finished painting up all the parts I already undercoated today and begun constructing the rest of the vehicle and have been testing the positioning of all of it together. I don't know how the console got so high up, looks like my Necrons are short sighted and looking for the right buttons to press!

Should've gone to specsavers
But yes, all I can say is be careful when putting this bad boy together, it looks amazing when it's done but I ended up wrestling with attaching the pilot seats to the main body of the barge. After much gluing, carving away glue, regluing, crying, going out to kill hormagaunts to blow of steam I finally got it in correctly... I think.  It definitely looks like an easy fix in any case. So yeah, just take some care when putting this thing together, you'll be okay.

On a completely unrelated note, I've got a game against Tyranids sometime soon. It has nothing to do with the fact I'm putting an Annihilation Barge together. Honest.

Design Change & Updates

As you can see, I've made a few design changes to my blog, I spent some time last night playing with the settings to get a look that looked good that didn't rely on a design that many blogs use already. I've settled on this design, hope you all like it. I'm considering join some blog groups such as From the Warp or Bell of Lost Souls to increase traffic. Plus I can keep up to date with some of the amazingly cool stuff that their current members make. Two birds as they say.

Anyways, as to my own projects, I've been a little busy the last few days so I haven't a whole lot of stuff to update with, but I am working on my Annihilation Barge for my Necrons which has absolutely nothing to do with an upcoming battle against Tyranids. Honest. Pics should be coming in the next few days.

I'm also contemplating taking commissions for people so if you are interested in commissioning me for a paint job, please let me know and leave a comment.